3rd Gen 4Runner Maintenance Update

Before my recent trip to Black Rock City, I performed a major service update on my 1999 4Runner.

The work included new front and rear oxygen sensors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, an oil change (Mobil 1 10w-30, Mobil 1 oil filter), new ac belt, ps belt, and alternator belt.  I also bought and installed a new oil fill fill cap because the old one had begun leaking.    I noticed some oil seeping from the valve covers too (it didn't occur to me later that the oil fill cap and valve cover gasket leaks were related.)

And for good measure I installed an OEM roof rack and Yakima roof top box.

The parking lot of the auto parts store

On route to the Playa, the motor threw a Check Engine Light (CEL).   I pulled over at an auto parts store and borrowed their OBD II diagnostic reader.   It registered P0171 Lean, Bank 1.   I noticed that I had forgotten to tighten a vacuum clamp on the intake.  So I tighted it up, replaced a cracked vacuum line, and reset the code.

The CEL came back.     At the next auto store I am across, I pulled the MAF and cleaned it.   I also replaced another questionable vacuum line.  

The CEL came back.    I bought a new PCV and replaced it.  This was the clearly contributing to the leaky oil seals.   The PCV was shot.

I also bought a new (remanufactured) MAF.    I tried resetting the CEL with just the PCV replaced, but the CEL came back so I went ahead and replaced the MAF.     The CEL no longer comes on (with about 1,100 miles of driving).

This MAF sensor has not been cleaned in at least 130K miles

Remanufactured MAF sensor in front, cleaned but still faulty MAF in background

Working on a vehicle during a road trip isn't a lot of fun.    One reason to not do a major service just before a trip.

Camping photos:

A video that would have been helpful to watch BEFORE I was on the road.

Repainting a 4Runner

After 16 years of being on the road without a garage and over 180,000 miles, my 4runner was starting to look a little shabby.   The clear coat had peeled completely off the roof and was mostly gone on the hood.   It was also starting to peel on the top edges of the doors.  

What to do? 

I looked into having local body shops here in Boulder repaint the truck.    Their estimates were between $5,000 and $6,000 - an outrageous amount given the value of the vehicle.   I explored having it wrapped in vinyl, which would provided a tax advantage (advertising cost), but the local wrap shop said that I'd need to have the rest of the clear coat removed prior to doing it.    Plasti-dip was by far the cheapest option, but results were uncertain and it required a ton of my labor.   Neither wrapping or plasti-dip would fix the rust bubble that was starting to form just above the windshield. 

In the end, I chose Maaco.   I was hesitant, but I toured their facility in Denver (on Federal) and their higher-end paint seemed acceptable.  The el-cheapo Maaco options weren't very good and the highest end "Platinum" package didn't offer any further advantage in terms of warranty or real quality.   I chose their 2nd highest end "Performance" paint work with DuPont paint, a 5 year warranty, and a base cost of $1,200.    

Of course, like all warranties, there is a lot of legal language and carve-outs.   Maaco's 5 year warranty is really pro-rated after 3 years and it doesn't include the rust repair, only the paint.    See the table below. 

The paint ended up costing $1469.85, the bodywork to fix the rust bubbles was $451.20, and a new windshield was $240.   With taxes, my final out the door cost ended up being about $2,206.75.   Here's the detailed invoice. 

How'd they do?

For the price, they did a pretty good job.  I expected minor imperfections and my expectations were met.   Take a look...

Paint chips in the hood are all gone.   The white line above the grill is a reflection.

A paint drip near the side mirror. 

slight over spray near the window molding

A paint drip or two, slight over spray along window moldings. Minor imperfections that are only visible when you look closely.  I expected it and can live with it.   I was surprised that they painted the door handles and the mirrors, these were always just colored plastic (not painted) but they look pretty darn good.    I hope the paint on these parts holds up.

The only clear disappointment (so far) is that under certain light, there appears to be a very light mist of clear coat visible on dark plastic pieces of the dashboard, as if someone opened the door while there was still a clear coat mist in the air.    It doesn't rub off with a fingernail, but I haven't tried a cleaner yet.  I'm not sure what, if anything Maaco can do about it.   I'll follow up with them and see what they say.

Overall, I'm satisfied.   It's a 4/5 star review with one star being deducted for barely visible mist of interior clear coating.    

BMW R1200GS Starter Grenade

I was at my local BMW dealer for new tires and noticed a new R1200GS in the service bay.    It was quite clearly missing a few choice bits, most notably its fancy new water cooled motor.   

So I asked what happened. 

"The starter motor failed," the service adviser replied. 

"Wha.... you had to remove the entire engine just to replace the starter?"

"No, when the starter failed it injected pieces of itself into the motor.  We have to take the motor apart to remove the pieces of the starter." 

There's a running joke among Beemer enthusiasts.   First year owners are beta testers.  

Don't be a beta tester.  

Why I Change My Own Oil

It was a beautiful autumn day in Boulder, so I took the opportunity to change the oil in my cars.   All three of them.   

Six liters of Mobil 1 Synthetic and a Mobil 1 oil filter.   Cost: $50.

Knowing it was done right?   Priceless.

A few years ago, I went to Boulder Jiffy Lube and had a horrible experience.   Click the link if you want to read the story.

After that waste of time and money, I vowed either I'd do it myself or I'd take the car to a reputable mechanic.   Most of the time, I step up to full synthetic and do it myself.   

Oh, I know it doesn't make economic sense to take time to do the work, but I get pleasure from taking care of the machinery I own.   There's just something deeply satisfying about turning a wrench.   Crawling around beneath a car also gives you an opportunity to check out the underside.   You can see if your CV boots are cracked, or notice the beginning of an oil leak.   You can ponder your suspension bushings, give your tires a good look over, and see if anything looks out of place.  It's a bonding experience, really.

I should also say there is an economic argument that makes it all worthwhile.  NOT having to drive back to the shop and talk to the manager is certainly worth something, but in all seriousness, doing your own oil change means you can step up to better quality lubricants and filters for about the same cost as having a shop put in the cheap stuff.

What Happens When Quicklube Changes Your Oil

oilpuddles, originally uploaded by oparvez.

A few years ago I made the mistake of taking the 4Runner to Quicklube for an oil change. The clowns doing the work didn't bother tightening the oil filter. The next morning, I was had to do a little a cleanup.

It was very cold outside.

I wasn't happy with Quicklube.

p.s. A letter to the company went unanswered. It was the last time I went to Quick Lube.

Snow tires in summer, boo...

Snow tires in summer, boo..., originally uploaded by oparvez.

Spotted on my sister in law's ES300. I never thought I'd see the day.

Sea Foam - Chinese Water Torture?

Wise men say that sucking water into your engine can result in hydrolock. Water doesn't compress very much, so you run the risk of causing severe engine damage by intentionally sucking it in.

Yet the automotive forums say that Water + Sea Foam = Fountain of Youth. The promises are remarkable; better fuel mileage, more power, smoother running. The horror stories, few. The online video tutorials, amusing.

So like a later day Ponce de León, I slid a can of Sea Foam across the counter at my local auto parts store yesterday. The clerk gave me a curious look, as if he knew something I didn't. It reminded of the first time I bought condoms at the grocery store. Then and now, I hoped the clerk's smirk wasn't knowledge of disaster awaiting.

Later that evening, under the cover of darkness, I began the ritual. The engine was warmed up while an old priest and a young priest were summoned. A few cups of water were sucked into the motor, followed by the sea foam. My helper, my wife in this case, kept the engine running at 3000 rpm but kept asking me if I knew what I was doing. I feigned confidence, all the while knowing that the price of failure would be measured in humiliating stories told at cocktail parties and family gatherings for years to come. With each puff of white smoke out the tail pipe, I wondered how this would turn out.

After the initial water torture, I took the car out for an Italian tune up. Given its advanced age and mileage (23 years old, 240K miles), I'd previously never pushed the engine much beyond 4000 rpm. Now I was repeatedly brushing past 6000 rpm into redline. For half an hour, I abused the car with boy racer antics and full throttle motoring. Gushers of white smoke poured forth, as I worried about law enforcement pulling me over for causing so much pollution.

Eventually, the smoke cleared and the engine began purring. It appears that the motor survived. Indeed, it was now running quite smoothly. From the seat of the pants, it also seemed like the engine was even a little more powerful. I'm not sure if it was the sea foam itself or the Italian Tune up which followed, but thus far I'm satisfied with the results (i.e. humiliation avoided). I've been tracking my fuel consumption, so over the next week I'll be able to tell if there was an actual improvement.

Stay tuned...